Monday, October 15, 2007

Bittersweet

I have not written in forever! The truth is life has become normal here, and I have somehow fell into a routine (oh we are such creatures of habit). I wake up a 6:15 everyday and go for a walk before chapel at 7:30. We go to work in the library from 9-1:30 getting the library books cataloged and class book sets ready for use. I spend my afternoons doing stuff on the computer for people around the college.

The whole month of September I worked on several power points. We actually did 5 power points for the DCT Bishop, no pressure or anything he’s just the BISHOP. I’ve learned to cook and actually enjoy it, especially baking brownies and banana bread. I make homemade yogurt from fresh milk delivered by a young boy from his family’s Shamba (farm). Life is simple and I enjoy reading everyday. I highly recommend the book The Secret Life of Bees which I read in two days. Occasionally we watch movies on the projector or go to town for dinner at the Dodoma hotel. Overall I have really enjoyed slowing down and getting back to the basics, and the many of the things I have neglected the past few years. Of course now I am itching for a new challenge!

Don’t get me wrong there are several wonderful moments that take my breath away reminding me that I am in a culture so very, very different from my own comfortable U.S lifestyle. Lacy and I spent one Sunday at St. John’s church in Msalato village for a thanksgiving service. It was in thanksgiving for a new wheelchair donated to a girl my age that crawled around her whole life. She had cerebral malaria at a young age; while normally this should have been cured there was not a means of doing so around the rural area in which she lives. What was so amazing was her joy in life, her smile was incredibly contagious, and her appreciation was overwhelming. It was wonderful to be apart of such a special day in this young woman’s life. Even though the family had been through so much, not just the struggle of a daughter, they welcomed us into their home. We were fed the best ugali (cornmeal stuff), and given our first traditional Gogo dish Malenda, which is made from pumpkin leaves and okra. It was so much fun eating with my hands, rolling the ugali in my palm and dipping it into the malenda, while trying to avoid a huge mess from the long gooey, gummy, sticky string that pulls up from the malenda dish after the ugali has scooped it up.

About three weeks ago on a Friday our phone was stolen out of the library. There is a saying “No good deed goes unpunished.” We were so down after that, we felt so vulnerable and angry that we were volunteering spending tons of money and someone at the college steals our phone. That same Friday, we had plans to go into town and learn to cook Chapatis and Ugali at Isaac’s house with Darius. After our phone was stolen all Lacy and I wanted to do was pout and lock ourselves in our house. Well thank god we decided that we needed to keep our commitment to Darius because it was one of the best nights I have had here. When we got there they had everything ready. They explained how to cook with charcoal. It was like we were at a real cooking class, it was so cute! After we finished making everything we all sat around and ate it with our hands out of community bowls, which is the traditional way of eating, no colonial plates or silverware. That night we went to Kelly’s house for dinner, pizza and brownies, and we had a dance party! I loved looking around the room seeing ex-pats from all over the world: U.S.A, France, Italy, New Zealand, and Tanzania singing and dancing. I thought again, this must be what heaven is like.

That Sunday I woke up at 5:30 to watch the play by play of the BAMA v. UGA game. I cheered silently so I wouldn’t wake up Lacy. Then I got back into to bed angry, couldn’t sleep so I went to the early church service to calm my nerves. That same day I got to read a passage from Acts at the cathedral. At Chapel the following Tuesday I got to read again. I really liked reading and I hope to find a Church at home where I can participate in the service.

The week before our “holiday,” we finished our power points, finished our work in the library and spent our Thursday night with Carol at the MAF compound. We were glad when Thursday finally came because that meant we were going on our trip to Victoria Falls. That Thursday we spent the afternoon relaxing at the pool, eating a yummy dinner, watching the moon rise over the Dodoma air strip, and doing some old school aerobics. We hit the road early Friday morning to head to Dar Es Salaam with Tim and Carol. The drive was long, but we stopped half way for morning tea because they packed tea and biscuits for the road. Got to love the Brits, the English can’t leave home with out their tea.

When we got to Dar it was much less intimidating then when we arrived in July. It felt so Western; I think we were in culture shock. Especially when we had lunch at SUBWAY, we almost forgot we were still in Africa. Actually the whole time we were in Dar we didn’t feel like we were still in Africa. We stayed at a nice Italian guest house with hot water and A.C., and ate dinner at a nice area called Sea Cliff which reminded me of Destin. Saturday we spent the whole day at White Sands Hotel by the pool over looking the Indian Ocean; this was a day of luxury all for the price of $2. The best part about the whole day was when we ran into the Korean guy from language, a small world even in Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania! That night we had dinner at SPURS, which a South African chain, a cheesy version of Outback but not as good. We spent Sunday morning at Slipway, which is on outdoor shopping area with a market and the famous tingatinga paintings, before catching our flight to Lusaka, Zambia.

When we arrived in Lusaka, I really thought we left Africa. It is amazing how many South African chains like Shop Rite (their version of Walmart) and Spurs are present in so many cities. All the roads in Lusaka were paved by the Japanese. Talk about globalization. We stayed that evening at ChaChaCha backpackers, not exactly the nicest place but for one night and $12 I was not complaining. Lacy and I met some really cool South Africans who were working for a company called Mapit just driving around exploring the Southern and Eastern region of Africa. Ironically the South African vs. U.S.A. rugby game was on, who knew we had a national rugby team?

We spent the whole next day on a bus to Livingston. When we finally arrived we were so sick of sitting we walked all the way to Faulty Towers Hostel where we were staying the next few nights. We ate dinner at Rite Pub and Grill, which was only place we ate the rest of the trip. Our second day there we got up early to see the sunrise over the Victoria Falls, and sadly we missed it. We first went to the Zambia side and then to Zimbabwe. The Zimbabwe side had a better view. Victoria Falls is absolutely one of the most beautiful places I have ever been. Every step we took along the path was more and more beautiful. I loved getting sprayed with the water from the Zambezi River while being surrounded by a light show of several vivid rainbows. After viewing the falls we went to Victoria Falls hotel for tea and scones which was a perfect ending to our excursion. When we got back to Zambia we went to the Livingston museum, which I highly recommend, because it gave us a better understanding of the areas history.

The next day we got up super early for our Chobe National Park Safari. We drove to the Zambia border on the Zambezi River; this river is in the middle of 4 countries: Zambia, Zimbabwe, Botswana, and Namibia. Everyone gets across the border from Zambia to Botswana by boat, even tractor trailers are taken across by ferry, and we were told that there should be a bridge by 2010. When we crossed the border to Botswana we had to walk on chemicals to prevent the spread of hoof and mouth disease, I was fascinated by this. What really impressed me was Botswana’s HIV/AIDS awareness; they had billboards and condom dispensers. I was happy to see that a country with such a high HIV/AIDS population was being proactive in combating the issue.

The Safari was amazing; we were on a boat the first half of the morning on the Chobe River, which is the river that runs between the Botswana and Namibia border. We got to see a few new animals and over 30 different bird species, which started my new love for bird watching. Overall the Safari was very successful, and I especially enjoyed observing the behavior of elephants.

We spent the last few days of our holiday traveling back to Dodoma. First the long bus ride to Lusaka. Then we stayed over night at ChaChaChas again. Then flew to Dar, stayed over night, drove six hours before finally getting back to Dodoma. Traveling in Africa is a pain, and we were glad to be home.

Now I have 12 days left in Tanzania. The idea of leaving is bittersweet. We are wrapping up our projects here and beginning to make arrangements for our trip to Zanzibar. When I talked about leaving Msalato Friday with some faculty I almost cried. I’ve thoroughly enjoyed my time here. Deciding to take 6 months off after college was one of the best decisions I could have made. I have seen and experienced things I might never have experienced. I have a couple weeks left, and I am still waiting to be enlighten with my destiny, but I have learned that not knowing is so much more fun.

Tuesday, September 18, 2007

More Pictures

More pictures of my house, our trip to the game park, and Musa's graduation! Copy and paste in this link :)

http://ua.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2178773&l=6560f&id=27400166

Tuesday, September 11, 2007

And were on...

---Internet has been out, could be due to the fact that the wireless router is under the leaky watertower, just a guess---

8/20/07 Monday

Reason #1 I love Tanzania!

I went on a walk with our new friend, Darrius. Darrius is from the Gogo tribe, a tribe native to the Dodoma region. He is also a newly ordained priest who is quite educated and liberal compared to his fellow Tanzanian priests. As 25 years old and has more world knowledge than his fellow priests, which is why I enjoy asking him questions that I can’t ask other locals.

On this particular day that Darrius was visiting Msalato College, I told him he had to go on a walk with me because Lacy was not in the mood to exercise and I didn’t want to walk alone. Darrius and I had great conversation as we tried to understand each others culture. The reason why I find our cultural difference so interesting is because it stems back to how the Tanzanian culture and the U.S culture weighs sin differently. It is perfectly acceptable or “looked over” if a man has more than one wife, if someone lies, steals or cheats. Interestingly enough it occurs to me that what the American culture regards as acceptable falls right under the seven deadly sins here in Tanzania.

As we continued walking we started discussing the importance Americans place on exercise. For me it is about staying fit, and loosing some of that Freshman 15 (that kept increasing from many trips to Buffalo Phil’s and the Houndstooth). I explained that being skinny is seen as attractive in the United States, that celebrities are seen as beautiful if they are skin and bones. That people starve themselves and work out for hours and hours a day to keep their bodies looking that way. And I swear to you he laughed, he laughed and then said, “I can’t wait to tell Isaac this;” Isaac is his best friend.
It was the response I have when I just heard the best joke or the funniest story about a friend. I want to tell everyone so they can enjoy a laugh. That was Darrius’s response. He told me that men here find thin women unattractive. That the beautiful, educated, wealthy women are curvy. Being skinny here means that you are poor, that you are uneducated, and that you spend hours working the field or walking to find water. Women who are idolized here are the opposite of Paris Hilton; she would be seen as repulsive. This is the number one reason why I love Tanzania.

8/24/07 Friday

Today was Paul’s last day in Dodoma, we all went out to the Dodoma hotel for a going away meal. This was a much needed night downtown. Lacy and I showered and even got somewhat dressed up for the occasion. We at the China Garden restaurant in the hotel, and for African Chinese it was amazing. Lacy and I even spotted a good looking MAF pilot from the Netherlands, who seemed to resembled Brad Pitt in Legends of the Fall. I can’t even begin to explain how wonderful it was to go out, eat out, and get dressed up, after being at Msalato all week.

8/25/07

Lacy and I hiked Lions Rock here in Dodoma. I can be described a free standing mountain that has big bounders that form the shape of a lion’s head. There is a wonderful view of Dodoma at the top. All the rocks have “John was here,” “AW+GF,” and some other disturbing things. It reminded me of a park in peoples town Atlanta, the way people painted all over.

We hiked up the mountain with Musa (who is a Diploma 3 student) and his wife and 2 children. It was nice spending a day with a Tanzanian family. I really enjoyed observing the way they interacted. Usually here in Tanzania it is the role of women to carry children and other things. This family is progressive; it was no problem for Musa to carry his youngest son or the children’s jackets. Normally I don’t see this team effort in a marriage, it was quite refreshing.

Dinner tonight was at Mama Tupa’s house. Robyn came with us and brought games. Mama Tupa’s youngest child enjoyed trying to out smart Lacy and I in a version of checkers. I really enjoyed dinner at their house. Mama Tupa is an amazing woman. She takes in children from all over the region. Currently she has 5 of her own, and 6 children whom she is responsible for sending to school. That’s the culture here, if you have money you have to take in your family members and send them to school, THEY HAVE TO.


8/26/07 Sunday

Robyn invited us to a village church so that she would not be the only mzungu. Lacy and I were under the impression that this visit was to honor Robyn for the Bibles she donated. Boy were we wrong!!!

After walking thirty minutes to the church, that we were told was 15 minutes away, we were greeted by the priest. As usual we were sat up front. I could tell that this day was a special festive day at the church because a bongo-flava gospel choir was invited to entertain. This was a much different experience than the traditional Gogo music we were used to. While it sounded wonderful and it was wildly entertaining, its beauty was offset by the extremely loud volume coming from the speaker. In order to attract the younger generations churches here play music on the electric keyboard, guitar, and bass. It is the same issue (attracting the youth) the traditional churches in United States are facing.

After the hour long sermon where the speaker shouted about money, the offering plate went around, and then the fundraising for new sound equipment began. Lacy and I were not aware of the fundraising until we got there. This was a fundraising event like I have never seen before. It started with the hour long boisterous speaker, he put a box on the table and in order to open the box 10,000 TSH had to be raised. Finally the money was raised and the box was opened to reveal donated material to be sold. Then the man told everyone that he was donated 50,000 TSH. Women from the church choir ran around them waving their hands in their face praising the speaker and his wife.

After this display, every person who was visiting the church that day was called up to the microphone to tell everyone what they were donating. I just couldn’t believe it. I felt so uncomfortable, the whole time I was praying they would not call me forward. I had already given all my money to the offering, I had nothing. Then it happened, they called my name. How did they get my name? I was horrified, I shook my head no and looked away and Lacy told them that we prefer to stay put. Here we were two wazungus who have more money than they will ever have, looking like the stingiest people alive. I have not felt this uncomfortable ever in Tanzania. Back home this situation never would have happened. In the western world it is rude to discuss money; this is just another example of how money is not a private matter here. Soon as they began selling the items that were donated, we scurried out of there.

8/27/07

Today I truly felt like I made an impact. It was a simple impact, but an impact that brought tears to my eyes. I helped the new Academic dean learn how to use an excel based program to enter and keep up with students grades. Lillian had been feeling overwhelmed with her new position, and I agreed to help show her how to use the spreadsheet. It was wonderful watching her eyes light up as she began to understand the simplicity the program would bring. At the end of the day we agreed to continue the sessions all week. She sincerely thanked me and I hugged her with tears in my eyes.


8/30/07 Thursday

Lacy has been feeling sick this week, more likely the flu than something she ate. Thank god she is feeling better today. We went into town and did our weekly shopping, and met a young Italian guy who was our age. Unfortunately, he was only in town for a day. Lacy and I realized that we really miss hanging out with people our age. I know for the first time I felt pretty homesick.

What is the best way to get rid of homesickness? If you guessed ice-cream your correct. Robyn took us to a place called Aladdin’s cave that has soft serve, with specialties named “Jasmines Jewels,” and “Abuu’s delight.” I had already ordered a Fanta passion and had chocolate, but discovering an ice-cream parlor brought tears of joy to my eyes. I made a promise to myself to return on Saturday.

My homesickness was cured today by having hamburgers, pickles, and chocolate. I was further satisfied by listening to Atlanta’s 95.5 the beat radio station online. Ahhh, the simple joys!!

9/2/07 Sunday

Oh my gosh it’s September!! This day last year Alabama had started their football season. I was at Camp Mikell for Guest Camp. My senior year had just started. I was driving a different car. I still had feelings for an old boyfriend. I was so excited about the winning football season we were beginning, enjoying my last year at Alabama, and finding out what my dream job would be so I could work right after graduation. Graduation seemed forever away; GBA 490 was a terrifying sound as it rolled of my friend’s tongues. Everything was so different. I’ve noticed that the older I get the more often I compare this year to the last.

I had such a wonderful weekend that missing the first game and guest camp was not a bad as a thought it would be. Lacy and I spent the weekend with Kelly Alexander. It was so nice spending the weekend in town. We started Saturday off at Saba Saba, Dodoma’s outdoor shopping mall. This shopping area has used clothes and shoes. It amazes me that shoes are so sparkling clean from the vendors scrubbing them. The clothes probably come from my closet when I cleaned it out last decade. Nonetheless, I bought two new cotton t-shirts with a target label (when did target have their own label?) because my shirts are getting pretty grimy.

After our shopping extravaganza we ate ugali and veggies at a local restaurant. I love eating Ugali, grabbing a chunk of it rolling it in my hand, pressing a dent in it to scoop up my veggies. It satisfies the childhood suppressed desire to eat with ones hands.

After our yummy meal we did some more looking around town and then headed to Sunset to play pool on the small tables with the small balls. After our “vigorous” games of pool we headed to Aladdin’s Cave for ice-cream!!! Yummy soft serve I cream. I had Abuu’s delight, which was similar to a banana split. It was truly on heaven or as in the movie “A magic carpet ride.”

We left and headed home to take HOT showers! The hot shower was amazing, it was almost too hot because I was not used to it. I was also not used to feeling an electric current every time I turned the water hotter or colder. After we all took showers we relaxed, made pizza and listen to music on itunes. The homemade pizza was amazing, and I can’t wait to try the recipe. I love how I have learned how to make things from scratch here, even yogurt. Lacy and I stayed awake as long as we could, but we fell asleep at 11:00 p.m. after the action packed long day.

We woke up the next morning and Kelly made us British pancakes, which were basically crapes. I miss Sunday morning pancakes from my childhood. After pancakes we walked to the Dodoma hotel to use to pool for the afternoon. It was so hot that we only “sunbathed” for an hour, and then had a bite to eat under the tiki hut by the pool. Lacy calls the Dodoma hotel the wazungu country club, our own version of the country club from the movie Out of Africa. Overall this was one of the best weekends, it was so great to hang out with young people, get some color, and eat American food!

9/5/07 Wednesday

When life hands you lemons, by all means make Lemonade, or hot cocoa.

Wednesday nights are starting to have a tradition. The past few Wednesday’s we have been watching movies with the diploma two students in Robyn’s class. There are about 14 of them and for the first two weeks we watched Ghandi. It is wonderful getting to know these students on a more casual level. This week, unfortunately or fortunately the power was out. So instead of watching a movie we gathered outside under the “gazebo” and sang songs. It was wonderful enjoying sharing music from my culture, the Tanzanian culture, and the Gogo culture.

Our duplex was the only one with power so Robyn, our duplex neighbor from Australia/New Zealand, invited everyone over for Chai. Robyn made several of the students and I hot cocoa. One of the students, Sabia (a new favorite) asked me why I liked chocolate. “I just do it taste wonderful.” I really wanted to say, I am a woman what woman doesn’t love chocolate, hormones hello! Then Sabia asked me to tell a story so with chocolate on the brain I told a short version of Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, and threw in a little twist saying that was my GREAT GREAT GREAT GRANFATHER CHARLIE who inherited the Factory, and that is really why I love chocolate. Silly I know!

Then Sabia told Lacy and I a story about a demon/ghost. A Ghost Story right? Wrong. The spirit world is very close and very real here. It is quite common to have exorcisms and intense prayer sessions that cause people to faint from demons. Good thing I didn’t tell them old Camp ghost stories, like ole man gravel.

Tuesday, August 28, 2007

Link for pictures!!

This link is finally being posted after Dr. Heggem's many demands! Sorry you have to copy and paste it into your browser. It has pictures of Morogoro where we went to language school, and our place here at Msalto!

http://ua.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2173693&l=d7b96&id=27400166

Monday, August 27, 2007

The internet has been out here is Part One

8/14/07

Today Lacy and I rode the daladala to town to buy Material for our house girl to make us skirts. I’ve decided that after this experience I will think differently about riding Marta and foreigners in the USA.

Our house girl speaks very little English (she says Good-morning in the afternoon and Thank you and ok), but despite this huge language barrier we went with Seche (pronounced Say Chay) to the market. On the way in we rode a daladala and actually had a seat, but because we got a bus we had to stop every 2 Km to unload maiz, rice, chickens, etc. 20 twenty minute ride took 40 minutes, making Marta seem almost as reliable as the German subway system. But I love these moments when I am hit the realization that Flexibility means so much more here than it does in the U.S.

Our trip to town was successful and after much sign language we were able to show Seche what we needed. Our ride back on the daladala was usual. There is a joke here, “How many people can fit in a daladala?”
“At least one more”

When we got home we handed over the material for her to make “skirti” for Lacy and I, she didn’t measure us but hey the key word here is FLEXABILITY!


8/15/07

Tonight Lacy and I have to cook for ourselves, A.K.A attempt to!!! We have been spoiled here and have it worked where we are eating at someone’s house almost every night for two weeks. Last night we had dinner with Carol and Tim from England. Carol works in the Library with Lacy and I, she reminds me of my great Aunt and already I love her!

In order to get ready for our cooking extravaganza we went back to town to buy fruits, veggies, and other necessary ingredients. The market is crazy. There are young boys hovering around us at all times to carry our baskets, and sometimes to rob white folks. Luckily, our bag boys were trustworthy. I am impressed with the produce sellers here; all produce cast 500 TSH whether you buy an onion or a head of cabbage. Every vendor around town sells their produce at this price. They’ve gotten together, set the price, and there is no negotiating. It’s like a union.

After getting all our necessary items in town we went home and begin preparing our meal. First, we had to clean all the produce by soaking them in bleach water for 20 minutes. This is so we can eat them raw. Then we began stir-frying veggies and boiled the noodles. After a few hours of chaos, we put together a glorified Ramon looking meal, and a cucumber, tomato, onion and avocado salad. It was pretty good, and we are hoping that by the end of this trip we will be able to cook from scratch like the locals do!

8/16/07
Today this blog is in Memory of Rev. Hendree Harrison, a man who has touched me and who is loved by many!

One of my greatest worries about leaving home was loosing someone I loved: not being able to say good-bye, not being able to give condolence to friends and family, and not being able hug those who are still here on Earth feeling like a bit of them has gone too.

Hendree Harrison, my former Rector at St. David’s in Roswell passed away in his sleep. He was the greatest parish leader I’ve ever known. Those who worked for him admired him. He never thought twice about flying across the country to be with a family as the daughter went through a dangerous heart surgery. He started “Hendree BBQ,” held every year at Wills Park. During announcements he would inform the congregation of UGA’s Saturday Football score. Hendree didn’t mind all the Vacation Bible School kids laughing at his silly Shepard outfit. Nor did he mind my brothers and I holding up the other members in line waiting to shake his hand after the service, while we each gave him a hug! I am glad I got to give him a hug last summer when his family was at Camp Mikell. The Harrison’s reflect his values of community, and they will continue to be in my thoughts and prayers.

8/17/07

I am going to Ruaha National Park tomorrow with Lacy, Robin and Paul. It is a 9 hour drive from Dodoma. We are flying with MAF, an airline for missionaries, at an incredible price. We are leaving at 7:30 and getting to the park at 8:30. We will be there until 4:00 p.m. and will have lunch at the lodge. The Cessna only seats six. I am really excited to fly in a small plane, it is one of those things I want to do before I die along with the Safari. I am glad I have to opportunity to do both tomorrow.

The man at MAF told me that the plane can only hold 500 Kilos because there needs to be enough fuel to get us there and back. He asked us our weight and like most women I rounded down a few pounds. Opps, and I also just had my first Tanzanian feast, I guess I will have to bring less in my bag tomorrow to make up for the difference.

Our Tanzanian feast was at Faculty member George’s house just across the dirt path. He and his two daughters walked over and picked us up at our house at 7 p.m. We got there and sat around the living room and introduced ourselves to his family. He has three children and another girl living with him whose parents died from AIDS. George’s family is absolutely amazing for taking in this girl.

Before we ate dinner the family sang one song in Kiswahili and one in English as a prayer of thanksgiving for the food. Lacy and I also taught them the famous Camp Mikell prayer, Johnny Appleseed. They loved our new prayer and I am glad I was able to teach them one of my favorite prayers.

Janet, George’s wife cooked dinner, and it was wonderful. We had a traditional meal: rice, something like collard greens, fries, and dikdik. The dikdik is like a deer, and George told us he had just killed it the other night, yummy. Not only that but George says that we will probably see one on are Safari. It really was amazing, it was very tender which made it very different tasting then deer. I ate more food than I really wanted, but I am told that it is very polite to have seconds and it the best compliment I can give. I am not sure I can give these compliments every night.

8/18/07

I woke up early for a Saturday morning. It was overcast and chili outside, not exactly Safari weather. Nonetheless, Lacy, Robin, Paul and I headed to MAF to meet our pilot at 7:30. While the airport in Dodoma is paved, it is a small airport with only one routine scheduled flight. The “passenger lounge” is where we met the pilot, weighed our bags, and went through security. The pilot showed us to the plane and went over the seatbelt and safety rules. Lacy and I climbed into the back of the 6 passenger Cessna, put in our ear plugs, and said a prayer before take-off.

I really liked flying in the small plane, and I really hated having no leg room (my knees were practically in my cheast). The view was incrediable coming into the park as we landed safe on the dirt runway. We were met by our guide at the “airport office,” and customs (if you can even call them that) was there to take our park fees. The airport office was a big tiki hut, how official!

After finishing our paper work, Lacy and I got in the back seat of the Safari vehicle. The vehicle was basically a truck with theatre seating, open air, and a canvas top for shade. Of course we didn’t need shade; believe it or not it is cold here in Tanzania today.

As soon as we begin our Safari, we saw Baboons, Zebras, Jackals, and Impales. A few minutes later we saw a Giraffe, we were told Ruaha is nicknamed Giraffec Park. Minutes later we spotted an elephant and then around the corner the whole herd of elephants men, women, and babies. I really wanted one to blow out of there trunk; if they had only made the sound of the elephant on the jumbo-tron at Bryant-Denny Stadium! We did give them a big ROOOOLLLL TIDE ROLL!!!

At the beginning of our ride we spotted lots of animals. We saw the bird that is Simba’s guardian in the Lion King (don’t know the birds name). There was a hungry crocodile on the bank of the river. A herd of Buffalo about a mile long was trekking through the park. As we stopped to take a picture it seemed that the leaders of the herd were conversing, “should we move? Should we stay? Everyone protect the babies, men assume your position.” I wondered what kind of defense strategy they were developing.

After the Buffalo, we couldn’t believe how quickly we were checking animals off the list. We were now on a hunt to see lions. It felt like we were driving forever. There were more impalas, zebras, elephants, giraffes, exotic birds, and even some dikdiks (like the ones we had for dinner last night)!!! And then finally we got to see lions. There were two females and one male way across the river bank, not as close as I wanted them to be, but I was happy to finally see some.
After seeing the lions, we headed to lunch! Thank God because I was starving. On the way to lunch we had to wait a few minutes for the Giraffe in the middle of the road to move; it was soooo close. It was on our way to lunch that I saw one of the most amazing animals, kudu. I had never seen this animal before, not in pictures, or even a zoo. They look like they are in the deer family. These beautiful creatures are full of detail. They have white lines down there bodies; it looks like God took a paint brush drew these lines. There ears are bright red and there is white on there faces that reminds me of war paint. The males have horn, goatees, and what looks like a Mohawk on top of their back. I was taken back by the intricate detail. I could have spent hours admiring there beauty, but I was hungry.

We ate lunch at the lodge, which I highly recommend as a vacation spot. There are luxurious huts to stay in near the hippo pond, and no need to worry because a man from the Masi tribe is there to escort and protect the guests at night. The lodge looks like a cross between a Caribbean tiki hut and a Colorado ski lodge. Lunch was buffet style, the way Americans like it. Of courses I stuffed myself because who knows when I will have a meal that tasty again.

We spent the rest of our lunch break admiring the view before meeting our guide at the car. On the way to the car there was an elephant about 50 feet away, BREATHTAKING! I took this as a good luck sign that Alabama will have a great season.

The ride back was by far the best part of the day. As we are speeding back toward the “airport,” our guide notices a few lions in the distance (how he saw them I am still trying to figure out). He backed up the car and took a side road to get closer to them. There she was 100 feet away. I was on the side of the car nearest to her, wishing there were windows on the crazy SUV. Then we spotted more females, two across the river, one more straight ahead to form a triangle. There was another female behind the one straight ahead, the male yards behind her, and another female yards behind him. They were strategically place, protecting something or getting ready to hunt dinner. There strategy is incredible it has such a clear defined purpose, a well thought out plan for survival.

We continued to drive down the path getting closer and closer to the male lion. The female lions near him got up and ran behind the bushes in the distance. I was praying that we were not their clear defined purpose…tonight’s dinner. We got closer and closer and closer to the male lion, he and I were staring one another in the eyes. Too close for comfort! We stopped and took pictures and continued to drive, hoping that the females weren’t waiting around the corner to get us. Once we got around the corner, we realized why they had run in that direction! There young cubs were resting in that area; they had run to protect them. There must have been seven or eight. The mothers were waiting to see what were going to do. I could hear the cubs crying. It reminded me of a scene from 101 Dalmatians. I image that we were scaring them more than they scared us. I couldn’t believe it, a whole pride of lions, on my first Safari!

8/19/07

Lacy and I spent another amazing Sunday out in a village. Sandy’s former student asked her to do the sermon at his thanksgiving ceremony for graduation. This village was quite different from the one last Sunday. We arrived at Musa’s house where we were greeted and had chai in his family’s compound. The compound was made up of several mud homes that formed a square. In the middle was the Shamba (farm) and two bathrooms, holes in the ground. This compound is considered high quality and would be placed on the market for more money then some of the neighboring compounds. His family’s homes are made of red mud, which reminds me of Georgia red clay. The ceiling/roof is held up by fine carpentry of hard-wood beams covered with mud for the roof.

After Chai we walked to the local Anglican Church and began the service. Again, I was amazed by the local’s songs and praise. There was even a band that played hand made instruments made from local materials. The members played string instruments, xylophone looking instruments, and drums. Musical intraments, voices, rythem and sound are a very important part of celebrating life and joy in the Wagogo culture.

Yet again, church lasted three hours. There were two offerings taken, which I am beginning to wonder if they only do that when wazungus are present. There were baptisms and communion. One thing that sticks out in my mind about this service is that women were breast feeding their children in church. I find this too be odd, especially since speaking about sex, pregnancy, and using the bathroom is a big cultural, NO NO.

Lunch was served after the service at Musa’s house. I took a chance and ate the tomatoes and onions that were raw, and I haven’t had a problem yet. The only thing that made my stomach queasy, was finding out that I ate some animal’s liver or kidney, ewwwww! At the end of the meal we said our thank you and signed the guest book. Musa’s gave Sandy and Martin a chicken. Lacy and I got one as well, even though Lacy is afraid of birds, I was quite thrilled to receive our first Tanzanian gift.

Tuesday, August 14, 2007

In Dodoma!

8/9/07

Today we had spaghetti, or something close to it! It made my day. It’s funny how I got so excited over this meal when last summer it was always my least favorite meal at camp. Am I already beginning to appreciate the simple luxuries? I’d like to think so.

Today I visited the orphanage in Morogoro. I don’t think I could even begin to describe it. It was much like what I had seen on 20/20 or a similar program. There were babies, possible only days old. Lying in their cribs, SILENT! One baby stared at me with eyes full of wonder. My heart broke. It seemed as if they had already realized how to survive on their own with out the help of a mother or father. I was told that after a certain age they are put back into the community where they came from. I wondered how this affects them once they are placed back in their village.

On the way home I thought a lot about America and the hand I have been dealt in life. Why did I get this life, while those babies had to live like this? It really just doesn’t make since, fair or not fair? Did God line our souls up in the beginning and say ok Meghan you’ll go to America, live a life searching for its meaning, while never really having to fight to live. Then point to the guy next to me and say, your going to a third world country, but you will never question why you do what you do everyday-your life will be about survival for you and your family.

I’m hungry right now, but I have never known true starvation. I’ve had the flue with out fearing death. I’ve always been able to see or call my parents when I needed to laugh, cry, get advice, get a huge, etc. If my parents are not available I have a list of people who will comfort me. While I can’t change the cards I was dealt anymore than I can change the hand of those babies, maybe for the time I was there I was able to give them a bit of what I often take for granted- friendliness.

8/10/07

Today was our last day of school. Wahoo school’s out for the summer or winter here in Africa. We experienced our first daladala ride and spent the afternoon in town bargaining for different items. We booked our ticket and prepared for our journey to Dodoma. It was a quiet evening until the five young German’s came back to the school hysterically crying.

They had been eating at a local restaurant which serves pizza on Fridays; its known as the wazunga (white man) hangout because most locals can’t afford it. They heard gun shots. Five men came in a robbed the place. Not only did they take the restaurant’s money, but they took money and other valuable possessions from the customers. Everyone scrambled out quickly and came back later to find one dead and another injured. We are all completely shocked. I have no idea how they must feel; I know if it happened to me I would highly consider coming home. I know these things happen all the time in Atlanta, but this is the first time I have actually known the victims. “These kinds of things rarely happen in Morogoro,” said the resident pastor from Okalahoma, trying to reassure Lacy and me. Nonetheless, Lacy and I are glad to be heading to Msalto tomorrow.

8/11/07

Finally!!! Were in Dodoma at Msalato Theological college.

We took the 11:45 Scandinavia bus from Morogoro, actually the 11:45 bus didn’t leave until 1:00…ahh Africa. Gunter, Clair, John and Jill waited at the bus stop with us, which was nice considering we were still a little freaked from the events that occurred last night. The bus was nice for Africa; it was like a charter bus. We had in-route service that served drinks and snacks, but no bathrooms. The bus had to stop so passengers could use it outside. No indecent exposure laws here, actually not much law enforcement here either.

Martin picked us up, took us grocery shopping, and gave us the tour of Dodoma. We went to pick up Kelly at the “outdoor pool hall” and stopped for a cold one. Kelly is a fellow Georgian who has already been here a year; Lacy and I immediately liked her energetic spirit!
Kelly and I played a game of pool on a smaller table with smaller balls. A cold Safari beer was exactly what I needed. After finishing we headed to the McCann’s to eat, BURGERS!! Finally, something other then rice. Dinner was amazing and desert was even better. Soon after dinner we said good-bye and headed back to our place because we have to get up early and spend all day tomorrow in a village. While walking home I stared up at the sky. We can see every star in the southern hemisphere; I have never seen a night sky as beautiful as this.

After dinner we came home, a luxurious place for Dodoma. It is duplex with a front porch and French doors. We walk through the front doors into the furnished living/dining room. Straight ahead is the kitchen with a stove and refrigerator. To the left of the living room is our room. There are two twin beds, a dresser, and a wardrobe. In our bedroom is bathroom. Our bathroom has a flushable toilet and a tub with a shower bag that needs to be put in the sun to warm up, NO hot water. It is great having our own place to put our things and get settled in.

8/12/07

“Most days are ordinary, but there are those special days that are extraordinary,” said Rev. McCann during her sermon today.

Couldn’t be more true about today!! We spent the entire day in a village about 40 minutes away from the school. The ride there was incredibly bumpy, basically 40 minutes of off roading, thank God I don’t get car sick. I now laugh at how nervous I got riding in the car with other people at home. This ride makes my car trips at home seem like a day at the spa.

We got to the village in one piece and were welcomed by the children’s choir and several hand shakes from elders in the parish. We were there with the McCann’s to bless the new water pump, but it felt more like we were royalty. The hospitality here puts southerners to shame. The tradition here is unbelievable. We were waited on hand and foot, and the whole day was planned out completely.

It began with the tour of Carpenter’s kids (a school partnered with a parish in Colorado). The director showed us what had been built since Sandy’s visit last year, and made sure to let us know that there were still not enough funds or buildings. After that was Chai. The process began with a woman coming around with a bowl of water and soap to wash our hands. Then hot tea, hard boiled eggs, and this amazing pancake type thing.

After Chai we went to church. We had to sit behind the alter near the priest, which meant no goofing off since everyone could see us. It was a packed house, children surrounded the outside of the parish to listen because it was too crowded for everyone to fit inside. We must have sat in Church for 3 hours and no one complained. At home most churches have more than one empty pew, and its parishioners sneak out if it runs a minute over an hour to beat the rest of the church crowds. Oh, the irony.

It was beautiful watching four children get baptized, listening to the choirs sing and dance, and share in communion. The parish gave Sandy and Martin material and a pregnant goat, as a gift to thank them for all they had done. After the service Sandy blessed the new pump, and sprinkled the crowd with water. After all this we ate lunch, RICE, and then loaded the pregnant goat into the back of the SUV. I found the whole goat situation very humorous, but this is truly one of the most valuable gifts to receive here. AHH what a day J

In the car back to campus, Sandy and I had a great conversation about her call to ministry. I am really enjoying working with her.

We had dinner tonight with the Aussies, our neighbor Robin and the rector of St. Michael’s in Georgia. Another evening of laughter and great food, Lasagna and key lime pie, thank GOD! This day was truly was extraordinary.

8/13/07

Today was our first day of school here at Mslato. We started out the day with a wholesome breakfast, Corn Flakes. Morning Prayer began at 7:30 in the chapel, and after that we sat in on a class. Sitting in on a class made me miss Alabama and going to class in Bidgood. We met to begin working on the website, had Chai at 11:30 (tea and those pancake things again), and received training in the library.
Today was a very busy day, followed by another great meal at another faculty member’s house. The couple is from New Zealand and has been living here three years. We had homemade macaroni (like my mom’s but not as good). On the side was tomato, corn, onion and avocado salad. Dinner was followed by apple crumbles (like apple pie) and custard. Another great day that ended with a belly full of delicious food!

Wednesday, August 8, 2007

Nane Nane!

8/5/07

Man-o-man am I sore today! I woke up early as usual, around 7:00 a.m., which I found out is called 1:00 in the morning here. I grabbed breakfast and went to the church here on campus. The whole sermon was in Kiswahili and I could not understand. I mainly went just to hear them sing. They locals are incredible singers their voices can harmonize beautifully; I have never seen anything like it. I am glad it is Sunday because I am able to rest.

8/7/07
Wow! I just realized I’ve been gone for two weeks. Two weeks, that’s the rule my best friend and I made in 6th grade for when we dated guys; we had to give them two weeks we before we broke it off. Back then if we didn’t really like them that seemed like years of misery; what a silly rule!

Now, two weeks seems like a blink of an eye and 3 months seems two short to really get to know the Tanzanian culture. Things here have begun to seem normal and routine. Life is simple I wake-up at seven and go to bed at eleven. I go to class, eat, drink, take a nap, and check my email. I find great pleasure in the unexpected during the day.

Like Monday, I spent my afternoon walking with Sister Lalita around the campus. She taught Lacy and I the rosary. As she was repeating Hail Mary full of grace…a small dog began barking at us. Usually at home I would not think anything of this, but I kept hearing my infectious disease doctor’s warning about Rabbis. During these few minutes I heard barking from the dog, my doctor’s words of wisdom, and what I thought to be Hail Mary’s most foreshadowing line at the time, “pray for us sinners, now at the hour of our death.” I kept thinking this is it, rabbis…should have got the shot…thank God I am with a nun (as I am basically pushing her to hide behind her). Then the most humorous thing happened, the sister said to the dog, “go back to your commune we’re on a public road,” with the most faithful, fearless, Indian accent and the dog left. It’s moments like this that I find simple humor and irony.

At this moment I am listening to the sound of a crowd cheering. I am not sure how close it is, but I am told it is from the nane nane celebration. The nights are so quiet her that it could be miles away. I am very excited about nane nane. It will be my first time in town and my first meal away from the school. Listening to the crowd I am wondering what this farmer’s festival will be like. Most of the farmers I know or have seen are from Georgia or Alabama. They have the stereotype of overalls, southern drawls, a lip full of skoal and a bottle of whiskey. Will it be like Talladega? I can handle that as long as there are no Auburn fans!



8/8/07 NANE NANE!!!!

Finally nane nane, the day everyone has been talking about! This day started out like the last class before spring break. I could not concentrate, it was a holiday and I could feel the excitement around the campus. I could hardly pronounce any Kiswahili words. My favorite mistake was trying to say “…Kunywa Kahawa” (drink coffee) instead I said “…Kunya Kahawa.” After my walimu (teacher) stopped laughing she informed me that translated I said “I poop coffee.” How embarrassing, but at least I know a funny word now!

Nane Nane was quiet the experience. When we got there it was not too crowded. We looked at shops, learned about making tea, and observed many animals. I got to see flamingos, pelicans, hyenas, porcupine, a wild cat, snakes and huge turtles. The was a baby baboon there, he held my hand almost as if he was saying muzungu (white girl) get me out of the cage this sucks. I felt so bad for him I had to leave, but being able to hold hands with a baboon is an experience I will never forget.

We ate lunch outside on plastic chairs without a table. The waiter took our drink order and never brought us anything. When we went to order food they were out of chips (fries) and cucu (chicken), but then all the sudden five plates of chicken appeared. I ate the chicken and picked around the random feathers still attached. At that point we were so hungry it didn’t matter, and washed it all down with my Coca-Cola Classic!

The most memorable part about the day was of course the people. I was most fascinated watching women put babies on there back and hold them up with a cloth tied around them. I loved how the little children would stare at us as if they had never seen a white person, point like we were exotic zoo animals saying “muzungu,” and touch us to make sure we were real.

I watched the police drag a man out of an exhibit because he was steeling. They took him out as if he was a drunk being carried out of a bar in Tuscaloosa. Then soon after seeing 30 people gathered around the cops wanting to beat him up. Samson, our local who was accompanying us, said that when crimes are committed here if the cops are not around to take them to jail, the locals will sometimes beat them to death. Citizens arrest? What a different justice system!

Walking back to the car I took in all the commotion, as well as the clouds of red dust in the air. I’ve never been in dust like this; it got in my eyes, nose, lungs, mouths, and all over my skin but this didn’t stop the crowd. I watched as thousands of people gathered to buy and sell old clothes, toys, and house ware that probably come from the western world. I watched mobs of people try to sneak in when ever cars would go in or out of the gate. All the while thinking despite all this I really enjoyed experiencing this Morogoro version of a county fair!